Tour of Italy in Athens

Alluring Details: Osteria Olia’s interior has charred cedar board walls and art from the owners’ personal collection. Photo: Andrew Thomas Lee

Housed in an old brick building with exposed industrial beams, a swanky interior and a lush green patio with poured-concrete banquettes, Osteria Olio is the signature restaurant at the Rivet House Hotel in Athens.

Located in the Southern Mill project on the city’s north side, the redeveloped site was a manufacturing hub from 1902 to 2001, most notably for Wilkins Industries, one the nation’s largest manufacturers of women’s jeans. When Wilkins closed in 2001, the site was abandoned. Today the adaptive reuse building showcases oversized beams, reclaimed from the hotel’s previous factory life, and Shou Sugi Ban (charred cedar board) walls. It’s worth spending a few minutes checking out the architecture before settling in for dinner.

Special Treat: The patio has romantic lighting and curvy poured concrete banquettes for alfresco dining. Photo: Mali Azima

Osteria Olio’s interior draws you in with its earth tones and purposeful details including dried flowers hanging from the ceiling, luxe couches, brick walls, and art from owners’ James and Jessica Whitley’s personal collection. Two majestic paintings of deer with cardinals on their antlers create a quirky, modern vibe, but the dishes coming out of the open kitchen are traditional Italian and as delicious as you’ll find in the South.

Start with homemade light and airy fennel pollen focaccia served with creamy ricotta with whipped honey. You may just feel the salty air of Portofino. The sweet, oven-warmed, brined green olives taste as fresh as those from a farm near Napoli. They are smothered in herb salsa verde and served with aged Parmesan – great to snack on while you decide what to order from the extensive seasonal menu.

Most dishes on the menu are designed for sharing, so bring a few friends along. For antipasti, the battered and deep-fried salt-and-pepper-seasoned crispy calamari is simple, yet flavorful, with lemon chive aioli for dipping. Sweet corn and pecorino arancini is fried to perfection and topped with a garlicky marinara-style tomato, onion and Calabrian chili sauce. Seasonal farm greens are tossed with salty anchovies, charred broccolini, pecorino, breadcrumbs and Parmesan in each bite of the Misticanza alla Romana salad.

For main dishes, try at least one of the pasta options. The delicate fluffy fresh agnolotti stuffed with creamed corn and mascarpone, tossed in brown butter, lemon, thyme and trumpet mushrooms, melts in your mouth. And the poached lobster and ricotta ravioli with lemony sauce and charred tomato butter is quite refreshing.

Mouthwatering Delights: (clockwise from top left) Estate pizza, a server grates Parmesan over tonnarelli cacio e pepe, prosciutto di parma, ravioli all’aragosta and gramigna con salsiccia, bistecca alla griglia and chocolate hazelnut semifreddo. Photos: Andrew Thomas Lee

If you are in mood for pizza, there are impressive combinations of toppings. The Estate pizza is a great vegetarian option with elements of summer sweet corn, spicy jalapeños, fontina and fresh mozzarella, on an evenly cooked, thin homemade pizza crust. If you’d rather have a traditional dinner, there’s steak, pork chops, grilled fish and a half-chicken, with an assortment of contori (side dishes) to choose from. Some include smashed and roasted crisp red potatoes with mayo-based creamy bagna cauda aioli for dipping; delightful charred broccolini with vinaigrette and Parmesan; and perfectly grilled soft artichokes topped with garlic, chili breadcrumbs and shredded pecorino cheese.

Save room for a generous portion of dessert, also made in house and worth the calorie splurge. The espresso-soaked lady fingers and dark chocolate ganache layers on the tiramisu are both creamy and intense, while the sweet potato panna cotta is a delicious pudding with candied pecans.

The bar boasts an impressive wine list from around Italy, as well as some American wines and draft beer. There are also seasonal creative cocktails with funky names and liquor concoctions. Try the Lo-Fi Guy with amaro, Campari, prosecco and club soda, or a classic Olio Negroni with gin, vermouth and Campari. For spirit-free offerings, the DD’s special is a refreshing lychee cordial with Lyre’s and lime.

The weekend brunch at Osteria Olio is as promising as the dinner. Start with a pineapple mimosa and share a few entrees like a buttery-crusted quiche topped with onion jam or the peach and melon salad with honey and prosciutto.

Led by Executive Chef JR Bearden alongside Mark Bolchoz, culinary director of Italian Concepts at the Indigo Road Hospitality Group, Osteria Olio takes you on a trip around Italy through your palate and is a lovely addition to the growing fine-dining scene in Athens.