Where Art Meets Appetite in Trilith

After working at Fifth Group Restaurants, STK Atlanta and NYC’s Gansevoort Hotel, executive chef and co-owner Andrea Montobbio felt a pull to Trilith, where he could expand the local art forms into culinary expression. Combining his heritage from the Piedmont region of Northern Italy with the comforts of a modern steakhouse, he opened ENZO Steakhouse & Bar in fall 2022.

Artistic Expression: Clockwise from bottom, shrimp aglio e olio, tortellini emigliani, a pink limoncello spritz, iced tea and a panzanella salad. Photo credit: Heidi Harris

When I walked into ENZO on a Monday night, it felt like the town’s go-to gathering spot. The 180-seat restaurant – with a striking open-kitchen dining room, a dog-friendly patio and a bustling bar area – was packed with diners of all backgrounds. At first, I assumed they were local residents and film crews, but my friendly waitress informed me that guests had come from as far as Sandy Springs and Marietta, both around 42 miles away. I was curious to find out what the rave was about.

With gray tile floors, halo chandeliers and dark blue leather booths, the interior leaned more industrial than Italian steakhouse. Still, the warm tones, accented with red and pink paintings depicting bulls, clouds and nature, gave it a modern yet casual feel. The artwork rotates every three months, so you may see an entirely different gallery on your visit.

The one-page menu covers all the Italian staples – shareable meat and cheese plates, appetizers, pasta, risotto, woodfire grilled meats and seafood.

Warm and Inviting: One antipasti option is the peach, tomatoes and burrata, made with basil, extra virgin olive oil, picked shallots and aged balsamic. Photo credit: Heidi Harris

Because it was still peach season in Georgia, I started with a light and refreshing peach, tomato and house-made burrata salad. It was delicately dressed with basil leaves (grown right on the property), pickled shallots, olive oil and balsamic. The prosciutto-wrapped melon slices were sweet and salty, served on a bed of ricotta. I scooped the last of the cheese with the complimentary rosemary focaccia.

The grilled Caesar salad was a nice twist on the traditional. Lightly charred, with the perfect balance of house-made dressing, toasted breadcrumbs, capers, bagna cauda and parmesan, it was a standout. My personal favorite was the saffron square spaghetti – known as “guitar string pasta” for its shape – prepared by chef de cuisine David Gibbs in a well-balanced cacio e pepe sauce, accented with saffron for fragrance and color.

The smoked salmon entrée had a good char on the outside and was tender inside, resting on a puree of fava beans for a light, healthy dish. The 10-ounce charcoal-grilled branzino was also a showstopper. A trio of sauces – refreshing salsa verde, spicy Calabrian chimichurri and creamy horseradish – offered a different flavor with every bite. I ordered the roasted carrots as a side, but they were too mushy for my taste.

When I walked into ENZO on a Monday night,it felt like the town’s go-to gathering spot.

Grilled Delights: The restaurant has an open kitchen leading into the dining room, top left. Branzino with lemon, bottom left, and a dry aged tomahawk ribeye, garnished with rosemary, right. Photo credit: Heidi Harris

Carnivores will appreciate ENZO’s board experience, where a sampling of prime cuts comes with sauces and sides, perfect for sharing.

After such a strong dinner, the desserts fell short. The lemon and olive oil cake was dense and overly sweet, while the deconstructed cheesecake was too abstract to distinguish its flavors.

The bar, however, lived up to its reputation. Craft cocktails and an extensive wine list impressed, while a small take-out window offered drinks or specialty coffee to enjoy while strolling through the Town at Trilith.

With art exhibitions and wine tastings, Oscar parties and pasta making classes, ENZO embraces the arts just as much as the neighborhood around it. It’s a restaurant that feels modern, social and distinctly Trilith – worth the drive, and worth lingering for.