Atlas: Georgia Restaurant Review

Dramatic and Appealing: The Papillon private dining room has a blue butterfly theme. Photo credit: contributed

The St. Regis Hotel in Buckhead is one of the most refined addresses in Atlanta. Its European-style lobby with elegant chandeliers offers a touch of formality. But as guests make their way to Atlas restaurant, the mood changes to bold and dramatic, with décor consisting of leather seats surrounding tables that are adorned with white tablecloths and dark walls decorated with colorful, original masterpieces. Countless blue butterflies glitter in the Papillon private dining room, and the background British rock music makes the restaurant a stimulating experience.

Dramatic and Appealing: The Not Your Average Beet Salad contains the message “a beet a day.” Photo credit: contributed

Since opening in January 2015, Atlas has made an indelible impression on Atlanta’s fine dining scene, and 10 years later, it still offers one of the most sought-after restaurant tables in the city. When London-born Chef Freddy Money came to Atlas in 2020, he saw an opportunity to bring in his own whimsical and innovative approach to traditional fine dining in the South. Under his direction, Atlas received its first Michelin star and increased its staff. Diners still rave about the impeccable food and service today.

Dining at Atlas is about art, fun and food. Nowhere else can diners expect to eat and drink surrounded by an extraordinary collection of fine art, including both rotating installations and permanent masterpieces by Picasso, Freud, Foujita, Bacon, Soutine, van Gogh and Chagall spread across the 101-seat dining room and adjoining Tavern cocktail lounge. From the open kitchen, I could see Chef Money and his talented team whispering, orchestrating, and synchronizing their moves to present flawless plates and glasses of art in motion. It is dinner and a show, for taste, sight and sound.

Phenomenal Selections: Truffle Brie de Meaux is served with crackers. Photo credit: contributed

The culinary journey lasts a few hours, if you select from one of chef’s tailored tasting menus. There are also vegan and vegetarian tasting menu options and a la carte menu that changes daily to showcase seasonal ingredients and selections from local farms.

A variety of whimsical and nostalgic snacks awaken your palate to different temperatures and textures. Think of a warm melted cheese sandwich – only this one is a tiny truffle toast with truffle aioli. Then there are deep-fried octo chips made with tapioca and beets, served with a creamy Romesco sauce, and a delicate frozen red cabbage gazpacho flower topped with tarragon aioli. The smiley-face foie gras Jammie Dodger – snacks with cherry jam – is a savory take on iconic British confectionery. Paired with a chilled class of Dom Pérignon, the pre-dinner nibbles set the tone for the opulence of ingredients and intricacy of techniques showcased throughout the evening.

Whimsical and Nostalgic: The smiley-face foie gras Jammie Dodger is among several snacks served to awaken the palate. Photo credit: contributed

Menu highlights featured on a rotating basis include the Not Your Average Beet Salad, a playful take on a classic with marinated beets, soft cheese, aged vinegar and miner’s lettuce, served alongside a glass of foamy beet soup. The poached cod with orange sauce is delicately poached in olive oil and finished with a fragrant orange liqueur sauce. Those who take time to look, feel and experience will find that each bite offers a delicate balance of texture, temperature and flavor. The truffle brie is a delectable collaboration with capella cheese, topped with black truffles from Provence; and the signature green eggs and ham elevates comfort food with a soft-boiled egg, potato espuma, morels and generous shavings of fresh black truffles. The Hunters Chicken may be the most tender chicken breast I have ever eaten, alongside decadent 100-layer potatoes. Don’t be surprised if your server brings out a box of specialty knives to make sure you have the right tools for your experience.

Dessert brings more drama as the sommelier may pour a glass of Graham’s 20-year Tawny Port Douro from a 4.5-liter bottle that is as big as a newborn baby. It pairs perfectly with a timeless FM Rocher (Freddy Money’s take on Ferrero Rocher) – a gold-leaf-covered chocolate ball with a melted center, sitting on homemade ice cream and chocolate soil. The theatrical performances continue as diners hand crumble a liquid nitrogen dipped edible rose on vanilla parfait. And there’s no rum spared for the Baba Au Rhum. I was given a choice of four different kinds of rums to soak it with.

Wholesome Food: Beet salad with goat cheese and a plum vinaigrette Photo credit: contributed

The sweet journey ends with a Petit Four Plate – which has a rotating selection of mini sweet tacos filled with vanilla cream, compressed apples cooked with sage and caramel syrup, topped with a piece of fried sage; elderflower vermouth filled gummy bears; and pecan caramel toffee with an edible rice paper. If you still have room, glance at the cheese cart that boasts a phenomenal assortment of 15 or so cheeses sourced from around the United States and Europe.

Atlas takes its attention to drinks as seriously as it does its food. Cocktails are seasonal, fun and precise, with funky names like Cure and The Cause, Pinkies Up and Holy Smokes, and there probably isn’t a wine selection this like at any other restaurant in Atlanta. The sommelier sources some of the rarest and most unique wine bottles, including some from centuries-old family-owned estates around the world. When I was there, one of the bottles had a price tag of around $30,000.

With impeccable food, British humor and a friendly staff, Atlas redefines informal luxury in Atlanta. It is one of those meals that I will not only remember until long after, but the memory of which makes me cheery and want to return.

Healthy Option: The poached cod is finished with a fragrant orange liqueur sauce. Photo credit: contributed

Atlas

88 West Paces Ferry Road NW
Atlanta, GA 30305
404-600-6471

Website

Hours:
Tuesday – Saturday: 5 – 10 p.m.

Parking: Valet for $15 at St. Regis Atlanta after validation

Dress code: Smart casual (no tank tops, sleeveless shirts, ripped jeans, ballcaps, team athletic wear, clothing with offensive language or flip-flops)