Southern Retro Vibes: Marcus Bar & Grill

Music and fun is the central theme of this retro diner.

March 27, 2024

Sucheta Rawal,

Driving along Atlanta’s Edgewood Avenue takes you through an interesting section of quirky bars with neon lights and eclectic restaurants offering soul and vegan concepts. It is no surprise that acclaimed international celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson picked this neighborhood for his first restaurant location in Atlanta. At Marcus Bar & Grille, the neighborhood vibe seeps into the retro Southern space and transports you to what the city may have looked like back in the ’60s.

The fully stocked bar has a stereo-themed decor. | Photo credit: contributed

Music and fun is the central theme of this retro diner. Expect popular songs from all eras and genres, loud conversations and even occasional fire alarms in the kitchen. The atmosphere is festive, so it is not ideal for a quiet first date or business dinners. However, you can see groups of diverse Atlantans celebrating birthdays and girls’ nights. There’s even a cozy private Vinyl Room in the back for larger get-togethers.

A former garage-turned-restaurant fills the space with colorful walls displaying vinyl records, roller skates and Pan-African graphics. Even the wallpaper illustrates the bygone age of stereos. The open space leads into a large kitchen with a woodfire oven. One wall has a fully stocked bar with not only a great selection of liquors, but also a period display of old radios, speakers, boomboxes and record players. There’s a lot of warmth and energy vibrating through Marcus Bar & Grille.

Comfort Food with a Twist: Shareables include oysters on the half-shell and wings. | Photo credit: contributed

A solid cocktail menu plays homage to famous African Americans, and drinks are serious business here. Try the well-balanced Pinky’s Up if you like gin or the Dubois Daquiri for a spirited Bacardi-Arrack combination. There’s also a decent selection of beer on draught, bottle or can, as well as wines from the U.S., Europe and South Africa available by the bottle or glass.

A popular main dish option is fried chicken and cornbread waffle.

The menu showcases traditional Southern comfort food with Marcus Samuelsson’s own twist, inspired by his travels around the world. The food is plated without any frills – basic white plates, no fancy toppings or artistic expressions. Think old-school Southern diner.

Start with sharable favorites – buttery M’s cornbread and unassuming A-Town deviled eggs with homemade hot sauce. The Old Bay crab cakes are soft and peppery, topped with a creamy cabbage slaw but served with only four chips. For a spin on the classic burrata salad, try this one with layers of fried green tomatoes and pickled watermelon.

In mains, the fried chicken and cornbread waffle with pickles is one of the most popular items but can be a hit or miss. Sometimes the chicken can be dry and the waffle soggy. One of the more consistent dishes is miso halibut. The fish is cooked just right and has a light mushroom and tomato broth to flavor. Vegetarians will likely be disappointed with the coconut curry cauliflower. Heavily breaded and deep-fried florets, boiled chickpeas and turmeric tasting sauce aren’t harmonious.

The open kitchen’s woodfire grill adds a dramatic backdrop to the atmosphere and the menu. The whole grilled snapper is a showstopper with a generous-sized fish to feed a hungry diner or two. Topped with bits of crawfish and lots of bell peppers, it makes for a well-composed dish. If you are craving meat, you can’t go wrong with the tender smoked Edgewood beef brisket on top of herb potatoes.

The jerk pork belly wraps are served with chutney and bibb lettuce. | Photo credit: contributed

Order a side or two for the table if you’re still hungry, though most dishes are rich and generous. The slow-cooked collards tend to be on the sweet side with smokey brown sugar stock, and the wood-fired four cheese mac, served on a personal cast iron skillet, is loaded with lots of cheese, but the dish lacks seasoning. The add-on lobster will get you a few little bits that don’t really help elevate the flavor.

For dessert, there are a couple of rotating options, though none strike a chord. The banana pudding is overly sweet and watery, and the chocolate tres leches cake not soaked long enough to allow for the milk to seep through. Instead, grab a dessert cocktail with peanut butter whiskey, espresso and rye called Choc’d & Skrewed.

Overall, the eclectic vibe, fun atmosphere and musical notes (both DJ and background) make Marcus Bar & Grill a great place to gather with friends for stylish drinks and comforting Southern bites.