5 Seasons Brewing: Beer Here

Art Of The Meal

So, you’re all grown up now, a successful professional with the tastes to match. But even if you can afford the champagne budget, you still like to indulge your beer taste. Still, too often, that good old brewski carries baggage: The places it’s served for one — sometimes smoky, often noisy, frequently with very bad food. Shouldn’t there be some happy medium? A place where you could get an ice cold beer and hear your friends talk in normal tones, with good — and preferably, not too expensive — food?



Allow me to introduce you to 5 Seasons Brewing. Atlanta is a little late to the brewpub scene, a popular phenomenon in the Pacific Northwest, but 5 Seasons was one of the area’s first, and for my money, it’s still the best. Tucked away in Sandy Springs’ Prado shopping center, 5 Seasons not only makes its own beer, it also serves some of the best food around.



The ingredients are usually organic, always seasonal and fresh, and while the menu isn’t too fussy chef David Larkworthy has a skilled hand with a menu that ranges from braised bratwurst to duck in a spicy grape demi-glace.



You could eat beautifully here for under $20 with one of 5 Seasons’ excellent wood-grilled pizzas and a salad, but even the mini-splurge is affordable (Kobe beef with baby shiitake mushrooms and red onions, at $24, is the most expensive entrée).



More prosaic items include fish and chips, pork chop with cheddar grits, chicken breast with smashed potatoes, lamb tenderloin and ribeye. An appetizer, salad, pizza and one entrée, plus dessert, beer, wine and coffee, fed three women with healthy appetites — and provided leftovers — for just under $100. Economy is a watchword here — the house-baked bread is made with spent brewer’s grain, a beer byproduct.



Sit inside, where you can see the towering stainless brewing equipment, or outside on the pleasant patio with a small fountain and big potted plants. Our waiter was both fast on his feet and patient with our requests.



Want a quick intro to 5 Seasons’ brews? Ask for a flight — it’s not on the menu, but you’ll get a small glass of each of the restaurant’s five selections, from the hoppy Chug Monkey to Spiny Norman’s India Pale Ale and Dodgey’s Dry Stout.



Somebody in your party doesn’t like beer? Not to worry: The most ardent wine maven in our group crowed, “I love this wine list!” Headings like “Bored with Chardonnay” and “Surprise Me!” lead to discoveries like the jammy Lauren Glen Reds Zin/Syrah/Grenache blend.



With all its beer-centricity, 5 Seasons’ best offering is its food. Everything is made from scratch, including ice creams and sorbets. We loved our perfectly seared jumbo scallops, three to a plate with an orange glaze and microgreens. The Caesar is the deconstructed type, down to its essence: Whole romaine leaves, drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice, flecked with Parmesan, concealing whole white anchovies. I will be back for this pizza, with the thinnest, crispest crust around, laden with wild mushrooms and roasted asparagus.



We dove into the filet au poivre with an enthusiasm inappropriate for ladies — but as I told you, we’re women. Two small filets, coated with peppercorns and cooked to perfect medium-rare, nestled over a pool of red wine demi-glace — which proved the perfect dip for a haystack of thin, crunchy frites (and anyone who’s been to France will recognize the true master of the fried potato).



Even the flourless chocolate cake a dense little circle topped with ice cream and berries — features the chef’s personal touch: a sprig of lemon-mint microgreen.



Try ordering that at a sports bar.





5 Seasons Brewing


5600 Roswell Road (in the Prado)


Sandy Springs


404-255-5911


www.5seasonsbrewing.com





Hours: Lunch and dinner daily.


Credit cards: All major.


Parking: Free in attached lot.
Dress code: Anything goes, from shorts to suits.

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