Archive of: Art of the Meal

Title Issue

Zocalo: Mi Queso, Su Queso

Named for the Mexico City town square that serves as its historic heart, Atlanta's Zocalo is a glorified patio, with the yawning awnings and zippered plastic enclosures that make the place livable in Georgia's summers and winters.

August 2004

Bischero: Italian Classic

You know something's up when a restaurant inspires passionate debate. But the polarized responses to Athens' eight-month-old Bischero are as extreme as a presidential poll: "It's fantaaaastic," one friend reported, with the languid drawl of the willingly seduced. "I hate that place!" another acquaintance shot back in clipped bullets.

July 2004

Bacchanalia: Always Tasteful

Bacchus has a bad rep. Most people don't know that the God of the Vine grew out of his frat-boy-style vernal binges, called bacchanalia, later becoming known not just for inebriation, but also for the spark of inspiration that informs great work.

June 2004

A Rich Inheritance

In 1981, Elizabeth and Michael Terry opened Savannah's Elizabeth on 37th. Their mid-life experiment quickly became the smart, sensual culinary vision of the modern South.

April 2004

Nam: Home-Grown And Hip

Being a restaurant critic in Atlanta is a little like being a professional traveler. In the first years after I moved here from New York, I was delighted to find some of the more esoteric treats I enjoyed there and on globe-trotting jaunts - peasant French and Italian cooking, Chinese dim sum, Japanese yakitori, Indian thali.

March 2004

Where There's Smoke

Which came first, Rocky the Free-Range chicken or the brown organic egg? Woodfire Grill chef/owner Michael Tuohy, like a lot of Atlantans, is an immigrant. The usual word is the oddly horticultural "transplant," but his Northern California background was as exotic and alien as any foreign shore when Tuohy first made his name here in the late '80s. At Chefs' Cafe he drew crowds to his brunches, served in the shadow of a La Quinta Inn and an I-85 overpass.

January 2004

The First Joel

Ah, the holidays: If, for kids, the season is about toys, for grown-ups it's all about food. Diets go up like wood smoke in chimneys; the eyes of silver-haired patriarchs glitter as greedily as toddlers? at the thought of dessert.

December 2003

2003 Silver Spoon Awards

Despite a slow economy, our Silver Spoons reflect few dramatic shake-ups this year. Most of the state's most highly regarded restaurants weathered the storm, although a few reported record slumps.

November 2003

Mountain Time

The drive from Atlanta to the north Georgia mountains is just long enough to tire you a little. In the surprisingly short distance it takes for roads to narrow from expressways to four-lanes to slender blacktops threading through tree-shaded tunnels, you start to yearn to stretch your legs a little in this thin, refrigerated air.

October 2003

Power Breakfasts: More Than OK

If an army marches on its stomach, Atlanta business must ka-ching along on breakfast. Not the business lunch, nor even the lavish, expense-account dinner can compete with the kind of every-morning commerce ritual that gets your blood moving and your brain thinking about money.

September 2003
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